Seasons in the sunset - A seventy (+3) year old looks ahead and back

Seasons in the sunset - A 80 year old
looks ahead and back

Monday, October 10, 2011

Cross Country by Train - Tips

Cross Country by Train - Tips

  That Sounds Like Fun

When I tell people that I’m taking a train across the country, without exception, the response is, “Oh – that sounds like fun.”

Yes – true – but there is a caveat – or three.

  Cost (See Amtrak.com for precise charges)*
The cost of a “coach” trip across the USA rivals air travel. It’s in the $400-500 dollar range, but if you’re over 30 and you want to enjoy the trip, you’ll want a room. Amtrak calls this “first class.”Unfortunately, like air travel, first class adds approximately $1,250 to the cost.

A room helps you get a good night's sleep, plus you get a bathroom. So we’re talking $1,650 for a six-day, meals included, round trip vacation across the country. For two (bedroom as opposed to roomette) the round-trip cost would be around $2,500, again with meals.
 
* FYI: post pandemic prices (2022) are through the roof: $6,000.00+ for bedroom, for cross-country round trip. 

  Free Meals with Your Room
Let's say free meals will save you $50 per day/per person for the six days. As a pretend restaurant critic I'd rate the food as good to very good (for some reason you’re always hungry at mealtime). A bonus is the atmosphere - five stars for the view. 

  Rooms and bathrooms – more details.
There are two types of rooms: roomette and “regular” room (called a bedroom, viewliner room or superliner room, depending on the train). Both afford privacy, a not-small point for adults. Plus there are two window seats in every room. Good as well. 

Note: If you are under thirty or the gregarious type you might actually prefer the coach (sleep sitting up) experience. Depending on the make-up of your car’s population, the coach car may actually “come alive” after the first over-night which, in itself, can add to the trip. You know, meet new friends and all that.     

  The Roomette
The roomette is a two person room. You're knee to knee and face to face when sitting (comfortably) during the day, but even better sleeping bunk-bed-style at night. Dimensions are 3'6" x 6'6", I’m fine with it.** Also on the NYC to CHI run there is a bathroom in the roomette – or toilet anyway – under the sink, which folds up (think wall-bed) and voila. OK, so you could kiss the knees of a passer-by in the outside hallway, you are that close, but there is an opaque curtain between you and the hall aisle. Oh - and you’ll have to kick your roommate out unless you’re accustomed to visitors in your bathroom standing at about the proximity of your normal reading material. Still, it’s not a port-a-john. It’s yours alone. Much better.

Another advantage of the NY-CHI leg roomette is that the upper bunk has a window (less coffin-like) through which you can spy on the outside world from the comfort of an invisible pitch-black perch. I actually love this. Not sure if I should admit it but it seems safe (read ethical) – and deliciously anonymous.   

** A confession: My daughter and I actually rode CHI to NY with two adults and three very small children (highly illegal according to Amtrak) in a roomette. We survived. It wasn’t bad.


  The Bedroom, Viewliner/Superliner
This is a larger room that accommodates two adults and two small children comfortably. Dimensions are 6'6" x 7'6". I say comfortably here because, don’t forget, you can walk about on a train. The two primary destinations are the dining car and the lounge car. The snack bar with seats and tables is adjacent to the lounge and open to all. Of course your dining car time is limited (you must be chewing or about to) but the lounge car and snack area is yours as long as you like. Traditional seat-saving rules apply, i.e. a draped coat and hat – Yes. A half empty soda bottle – No.

  Book Early
Caveat: Amtrak prices vary like airlines. The earlier you book the reservation the lower the cost. You’ll also want to book early to get a room. They sell out early, especially at peak travel times. Trust me on this. Again see www.amtrak.com.


  First Class
When you have a room Amtrak refers to you as a “first class” traveler. Try to contain your excitement. It is something that my daughters and I joke about. We’ve done it both ways – first class and coach. First class gives you privacy, free meals, private bathrooms and access to the “first class” lounge inside the stations (good for luggage storage), when waiting for your train at either Chicago or New York and other spots (no such lounge at L.A. however).

Also you board first - well that’s not so important since the room is reserved, but as a coach traveler I always felt compelled to race to the train to get a good unreserved coach window seat (a must for me) when the boarding announcement was made.  In "first class" your seat (room) is reserved. No racing. 


  The Amtrak Crawl
Contrary to popular opinion Amtrak doesn't always, as the song says, Roll along past houses, farms and fields.Well - it rolls, just not always swiftly.

The issue, in "Train Speak," is that Amtrak does not own the track. You’ll hear this repeated often by the on-board staff. Every once in a while a freight train (the owner of the tracks) will either be plodding along up ahead or will want Amtrak to get off to the side so the freight can pass. When this happens you either slow to a crawl or head for a siding track and wait. Exasperating to say the least. As for the train staff, you know that they know what’s happening, and they're happy to tell you if you can find them.

As for the passengers, there's a common refrain: Anybody know what’s happening? 

You worry about missing the connection in Chicago, arriving too late for dinner at La Posada in Winslow, AZ (highly recommended, staying at La Posada), or missing the beautiful scenery of Glacier National Park due to darkness (always the case, I never saw this in half dozen trips).

You can almost count on at least one extended “crawl” (or worse) on each cross-country trip and the three scenarios above – missing connections, dinner, scenery, yes - been there, done that.

But, all in all, no problem - I love trains. I’d do it all again, and have. 

                        

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